I recently drove by a traffic island planting we designed, installed last year by a wonderful Boy Scout for his Eagle Scout project, and I did a double take. It's a rough spot, a traffic island in the middle of a busy street leading into a State Park, in full sun, hit with road salt all winter, with some debris from traffic. And it's thriving (I'm for sure not taking credit for the thriving, but am patting myself on the back for plant choices!): Here is the complete list of plants we selected for this hellstrip, each chosen specifically for its ability to handle the rough conditions of life on a traffic island: BUTTERFLY MILKWEED, Asclepias tuberosa Delightful vibrant orange blooms atop deep green foliage. The ecological value cannot be stressed enough, the nectar produced by the butterflyweed is high value. 2' tall. PLANTAIN PUSSYTOES, Antennaria plantaginifolia Use this low maintenance plant as a lawn alternative in the harder to grow areas, and enjoy the drought and salt tolerant ease. 12" tall. A Blue Stem favorite! GRAY GOLDENROD, Solidago nemoralis Short and lovely goldenrod often found in disturbed areas, which gives it its other common name “old field goldenrod”. However, these showy yellow wand-like flowers with gray-green stems and leaves are dynamic in a garden setting. PALE BEARDTONGUE, Penstemon pallidus* Grows in well-drained, sandy, or gravelly soils, making it an excellent choice for xeriscaping or rocky garden beds. Its tall, upright habit features clusters of tubular, pale lavender-pink flowers that bloom from late spring to early summer. EASTERN PRICKLY PEAR CACTUS, Opuntia humifusa One would not expect to have a native species of cacti in New England, but the Eastern prickly pear is precisely that! This low growing cactus has wide paddles covered in the requisite spines, large yellow blossoms are followed red fruit. SMALL YELLOW WILD INGIGO, Baptisia tinctoria The sturdy shrub-like stems produce multitudes of cream-yellow flowers in the late spring, and once established in the garden can handle fairly harsh conditions. (*In the hellstrip photos at the beginning, you'll see the not-quite-native Penstemon digitalis. Some of the plants had to be sourced from a specific grower linked to the state and that's what they had. We recommend Penstemon pallidus, pale beardtongue, instead — a true New England native.) I hadn't heard the term 'hellstrip' until I moved to New England from the Midwest. Much like I hadn't heard of a 'rotary' either. Back home, those are roundabouts. The first time someone told me to turn left at the rotary, I genuinely thought, 'Oh, do they have a Rotary International chapter here?' They do not. But I digress. New England roadsides may just be one of the more challenging areas to plant. The requirements look like a nightmare job posting. Wanted: Low-maintenance blooming plants that don’t grow too tall and need little care to establish. Must be able to tolerate the following conditions: Higher than average heat as radiated from the asphalt roadways and pollution from vehicles, dry, nutrient-deprived, sandy soil which is often hard packed, half of the year you will experience drought, the other half you will be covered with mountains of snow and will often have salt winged over you. You need to be attractive, not weedy, and you can’t grow too tall so as to block the view of drivers. You may need to respond well to periodic mowing, self-seeding is a plus. Compensation from pollinators commensurate with experience. Planting a hellstrip brings beauty to a spot that would otherwise be compacted soil with weeds growing willy-nilly, or someone's doomed attempt at turf grass that was almost certainly never going to succeed. Some communities even come together to plant hellstrips in a coordinated way, turning a string of these forgotten patches into green corridors that connect neighborhoods. If you are up to the challenge, here are additional native plants that have all passed our “most likely to succeed” criteria. Best of Luck! YARROW Achillea millefolium 12-18" tall Feathery foliage, drought tough, pollinator favorite SEASIDE GOLDENROD Solidago sempervirens usually 2' in poor soils Salt tolerant, bright yellow fall blooms PURPLE LOVEGRASS Eragrostis spectabilis 2' tall Airy purple seed heads, fall color SPOTTED BEE BALM Monarda punctata Unusual blooms, deer resistant, pollinator magnet SIDE-OATS GRAMA Bouteloua curtipendula 2' tall Oat-like seedheads, drought tolerant BEARBERRY Arctostaphylos uva-ursi 4" tall Evergreen groundcover, low spreading PATH RUSH Juncus tenuis 4-12" tall Tough, wiry, handles foot traffic WHITE GOLDENROD Solidago bicolor 1-3' tall Soft white plumes, fall blooms RUNNING GROUNDSEL Packera obovata 12-18" tall Spring blooms, spreads well, evergreen rosette SQUIRREL TAIL GRASS Hordeum jubatum 1-2' tall Whimsical bristly seedheads BLACK-EYED SUSAN Rudbeckia hirta 2' tall Cheerful, reliable bloomer, pollinator favorite SEASIDE PLANTAIN Plantago maritima 6" tall Succulent-like, low-growing LITTLE BLUESTEM Schizachyrium scoparium 2' tall Blue-green summer, copper fall color SUNDROPS Oenothera fruticosa 1-2' tall Bright yellow blooms, low groundcover, drought tolerant Happy planting! Britt

A hot topic lately is how to have less lawn — and honestly, it's about time. Traditional turf grass doesn't offer much to the environment. It requires regular fertilizer and irrigation to stay green, demands constant mowing to satisfy the neighborhood aesthetic, and the gas-powered equipment we use to maintain it — mowers, leaf blowers, edgers — takes a real toll. Gas powered garden equipment engines produce up to 5% of the nation’s air pollution. That said, some turf grass does have its place. If you've got kids playing soccer in the backyard, or you host summer barbecues, having some open grass makes sense. Nobody's asking you to rip out everything. But here's the thing — Lawns cover approximately 40 million acres in the U.S., making turf the single largest irrigated "crop" in the country — lawns take up an enormous amount of space and energy, and give almost nothing back to local wildlife. Their shallow root systems (often only 2–3 inches deep) do little to absorb stormwater runoff, contributing to erosion and water pollution in local waterways. "Can't I just add clover?" It's a reasonable thought — and a popular one — but unfortunately, we don't love this non-solution solution. Adding non-native clover is really just swapping one monoculture for another. It also attracts honeybees as the clovers sold for lawns mostly co-evolved with the non-native honeybee (honeybees are a story for another day). So if you enjoy walking barefoot in your yard and prefer not to find that out the hard way that honeybees love clover... skip the clover. Don't ask me how my feet know...twice...in the span of two days. So what can you do? The good news is there's a whole spectrum of options — from small tweaks to full transformations — depending on what you need from your yard. Here are a few places to start: Option 1: Think "area rug," not "wall-to-wall carpet" You don't have to eliminate your lawn entirely. Even shrinking it by a foot or two along the edges and replacing that border with low native groundcover makes a real difference for pollinators, birds, and soil health. Some easy, currently available, and low growing favorites, depending on your conditions: Part sun/shade: Heartleaf foamflower, Tiarella cordifolia Golden groundsel, Packera aurea American alum root, Heuchera americana Full sun: 3-toothed cinquefoil, Sibbaldiopsis tridentata (a personal favorite) Pale beardtongue, Penstemon pallidus Stiff aster, Ionactis linariifolia Or go a little bolder and put in a small wildflower bed right alongside your lawn: Part sun/shade: Spreading Jacob's ladder, Polemonium reptans White wood aster, Eurybia divaricata Hairy beardtongue, Penstemon hirsutus Great blue lobelia, Lobelia siphilitica Full sun: Pearly everlasting, Anaphalis margaritacea Gray goldenrod, Solidago nemoralis Butterfly milkweed, Asclepias tuberosa Running groundsel, Packera obovata Cardinal flower, Lobelia cardinalis Or go a little extra wild and make your lawn just paths through plantings. My dad created paths throughout their property, with occasional mowing, and walking those paths was really magical. Great photo from New Directions in the American Landscape. I highly recommend watching and reading everything Larry Weaner. Option 2: Replace your lawn with something that looks like a lawn (but isn't) Want something that still feels like a lawn — low, green, potentially walkable — without the neverending mowing commitment? A native sedge or grass lawn might be exactly what you're looking for. These can be mowed occasionally if you like, or left alone entirely, and they provide far more ecological value than turf. A sedge lawn in particular is one of our favorites for its soft, lush look that requires almost no maintenance once established. We're actually selling sedge and grass plug packs for the month of May only — once these are gone, we won't be restocking this year. All of these species can be left to grow but can also be mowed, they just need a heck of a lot less mowing than tradiitonal turf. And zero fertlizer. Species Sold as a Set of: Price per Flat/Plug Details: Pennsylvania sedge Carex pensylvanica 16 plugs $96 ($6 each) Part sun in average to dry sites. Ok in full sun with more moisture. 8" tall without mowing. Appalachian sedge Carex appalachica 16 plugs $96 ($6 each) Part sun to shade, average to dry sites. 8" tall without mowing. Eastern star sedge Carex radiata 16 plugs $96 ($6 each) Part sun to shade, moist to average sites. 12" tall without mowing. Side oats grama Bouteloua curtipendula 25 plugs $99.95 ($3.99 each) Sunny and dry to average sites. 2' tall without mowing. Purple lovegrass Eragrostis spectabilis 25 plugs $99.95 ($3.99 each) Sunny and dry sites. 2' tall without mowing. Option 3: "The Matrix" No not that "Matrix". Take Option 2 and spice it up a little. Matrix planting is a naturalistic approach to garden design where you create a plant community rather than placing individual specimen plants. Instead of spotting plants here and there, you weave together multiple species across a large area so they form an interlocking, self-sustaining tapestry — mimicking how plants grow together in the wild. The concept was popularized by designers like Piet Oudolf (New York City High Line) and researchers like James Hitchmough, and it translates beautifully to native plant gardening because you're essentially rebuilding a small piece of the plant community that originally belonged in your region. The Basic Structure A matrix planting typically has two layers: The matrix (ground layer) — one or a few tough, adaptable species planted in high density that spread to "hold" the space. These are your workhorses. See all those sedges and grasses in the Option 2 section above? Those would all work perfectly as the matrix. You can even grab a few flats of different species and mix them! The design plants — flowering perennials, taller grasses, or even small shrubs woven through the matrix at a lower density. These provide seasonal interest, extra pollinator value, and visual variety. We have some great species, avaiable now although...as Ferris Bueller once said, "Life moves pretty fast..." — and so do our plants. Check "Option 1" for some great additions to your matrix. Why Matix Plantings Work So Well for Native Plants Native plants evolved in communities, so matrix planting aligns with how they actually grow. The benefits are significant: Weed suppression — dense planting leaves no bare soil for weeds to colonize Lower maintenance — once established, the community is largely self-regulating Ecological value — layered, diverse plantings support far more insects, birds, and pollinators than traditional beds Resilience — if one species struggles, others fill the gap Thanks for Reading! If you'd like to dig deeper into lawn replacement and making your outdoor space work harder for the environment, here are some additional resources: Todd Bitner, Cornell University, great podcast interview Why a Clover Lawn is Not Helping, Prairie Up (great Matrix resources as well) Mark Richardson "Kill your lawn", he talks about specific methods to get rid of your lawn Three Native Sedges Made for the Shade, Dyck Arboretum An Experiment in Organic Lawn to Meadow Conversion: A Timeline, NDAL :) Britt

Guest post by Olivia Nicholson Each year in early spring, something remarkable happens across the forests of Massachusetts. As snow melts and the first warm rains arrive, amphibians begin emerging from their winter shelters and making their way toward temporary wetlands known as vernal pools. For nature enthusiasts, this moment marks the start of herping season—the time of year when people venture outdoors to observe reptiles and amphibians in their natural habitats. From quiet forest floors to shallow seasonal pools, these ecosystems come alive with movement, sound, and new life. Vernal pool season offers a unique opportunity to witness the interconnected relationships between amphibians, native plants, and the delicate habitats that support them. What is Herping? Herping is the practice of searching for and observing reptiles and amphibians in the wild. Many people associate herping with summer hikes or exploring rocky outcrops, but in New England, some of the most exciting herping happens during early spring nights. On the first warm, rainy evenings of the season, amphibians migrate en masse to breeding sites. These “big nights” can reveal an incredible diversity of species moving across forest floors and roads as they head toward vernal pools. Observers may encounter species such as the striking yellow-spotted Spotted Salamander, the energetic breeding choruses of the Spring Peeper, or the explosive breeding migrations of the Wood Frog. For many naturalists, witnessing these migrations is both thrilling and humbling—a reminder that even small, hidden ecosystems play a vital role in the rhythms of spring. Eastern Newt (Notophthalmus viridescens) photo courtesy of Olivia Nicholson The Magic of Vernal Pools Vernal pools are temporary wetlands that fill with rainwater and snowmelt during the spring. Unlike permanent ponds, they typically dry out during the summer months. While this may seem like a disadvantage, it actually makes vernal pools incredibly valuable habitats. Because they dry periodically, vernal pools do not support fish populations. This creates a safe breeding environment for amphibians whose eggs and larvae would otherwise be vulnerable to fish predators. Species such as the Spotted Salamander, Blue-spotted Salamander, and Wood Frog depend heavily on these seasonal wetlands for reproduction. Adults migrate to the pools in early spring, laying eggs that hatch into aquatic larvae or tadpoles. These young amphibians must grow quickly, completing their development before the pools eventually dry later in the year. Despite their temporary nature, vernal pools are among the most productive and important breeding habitats for amphibians in the region. The Hidden Role of Native Plants While amphibians may be the most visible residents of vernal pools, native plants play an essential supporting role in maintaining these ecosystems. Plants such as Skunk Cabbage, Red Maple, Sensitive Fern, and Highbush Blueberry commonly grow in the damp forests and wetlands surrounding vernal pools. These plants help regulate moisture levels, stabilize soil, and provide shade that prevents pools from drying too quickly. The fallen leaves from native trees and shrubs create thick layers of leaf litter across the forest floor. This leaf litter serves as critical shelter for amphibians during much of the year, providing protection from predators and helping maintain the moist conditions amphibians require for their permeable skin. Additionally, native plants support diverse insect communities. These insects form the foundation of the food web that sustains amphibians throughout their life cycles. Blue Stem Native's resident American Toad "Roberta" photo courtesy of Olivia Nicholson Amphibians and Plants: An Ecological Partnership Amphibians and native plants are deeply connected through their shared environment. Plants help create the cool, moist habitats amphibians need to survive, while amphibians play their own role in maintaining healthy ecosystems. By feeding on insects and other invertebrates, amphibians help regulate populations that might otherwise damage vegetation. Their presence also contributes to nutrient cycling within forest and wetland ecosystems. When amphibians move between aquatic and terrestrial habitats, they transport nutrients between these environments, linking different parts of the ecosystem together. Because amphibians are sensitive to environmental changes, their presence—or absence—can also serve as an indicator of ecosystem health. Healthy amphibian populations often signal that surrounding forests, wetlands, and plant communities are functioning well. How You Can Celebrate Vernal Pool Season Vernal pool season offers a wonderful opportunity for people to connect with nature and observe one of spring’s most fascinating natural events. There are many ways to participate: Visit local conservation areas that contain vernal pools Join guided amphibian migration walks Listen for the nighttime calls of spring peepers Look for salamander or frog egg masses in shallow pools Plant native species in your yard to support wildlife habitat Organizations such as the Massachusetts Audubon Society and the Vernal Pool Association often host educational programs and volunteer opportunities related to vernal pool monitoring and amphibian conservation. Practicing Responsible Herping While herping can be a rewarding experience, it’s important to observe wildlife responsibly. Amphibians are vulnerable to habitat disturbance, disease, and environmental stress. Responsible herping practices include: Observing animals without collecting them Avoiding handling amphibians whenever possible Staying on established trails Never disturbing egg masses or breeding sites Respecting protected habitats and private land By observing wildlife carefully and respectfully, herpers can help ensure these fragile ecosystems remain intact for future generations. Pickerel frog (Lithobates palustris) photo courtesy of Olivia Nicholson A Season Worth Celebrating Though they may appear small and temporary, vernal pools are incredibly important ecosystems that support a surprising diversity of life. Each spring, these shallow wetlands become the stage for remarkable amphibian migrations, new generations of frogs and salamanders, and a vibrant web of plant and animal interactions. Celebrating herping season is more than just a chance to see fascinating animals—it’s an opportunity to appreciate the complex relationships that sustain healthy forests and wetlands. So the next time a warm spring rain falls in Massachusetts, consider stepping outside and listening carefully. You might just hear the unmistakable chorus of spring peepers announcing that vernal pool season has arrived.

We here at Blue Stem Natives are pretty stoked about the snow this year but we get that not everyone shares our excitement.  The calendar says spring is almost here. The seed catalogs are stacked by the couch. It feels like winter has lasted a decade. And yet…there is still snow on the ground. If you’re looking out the window wondering whether winter plans to personally spite you this year, you are not alone. Spring fever has officially set in across New England. But before we collectively shake our fists at the snowbanks, let’s take a moment to reframe  what’s happening - because that lingering snow is quietly doing some very important work for your gardens. Think of it less as winter refusing to leave  and more as nature doing her job well . A fine layer of snow covers seeded plug trays **Snow Is Nature’s Slow-Release Fertilizer ** Snow isn’t just frozen water - it’s also one of the best delivery systems. As snow falls, it captures tiny amounts of: Atmospheric nitrogen Dust particles Organic matter When it melts slowly (key word: slowly ), those nutrients are gently released into the soil, right where plant roots can access them. This is especially beneficial for native plants, which evolved to thrive without synthetic fertilizers and prefer low, steady nutrient inputs  over sudden spikes. In other words: Snow is doing the fertilizing so you don’t have to. **Snow = The Best Blanket ** It may look cold and unforgiving, but snow is actually one of the best insulators your garden can get. A consistent snow layer: Protects plant crowns from freeze–thaw cycles Prevents soil from repeatedly heaving and cracking Shields overwintering insects and pollinators Without snow, winter temperatures can fluctuate wildly, causing more damage than steady cold ever would. That white blanket is acting like a puffy winter coat  for roots, beneficial insects, and soil microbes. Your plants are not suffering. They are tucked in . *Did you know that we don’t keep our plants in the greenhouse all winter? They live in the great outdoors where they belong! We always  have some loss mostly due to a lock of moisture, and early warm days/night freezes. This year? We are anticipating some great regrowth numbers! Rows of native plant containers covered in row cloth and a layer of snow **Slow Melt = Deep, Useful Moisture** Spring rain often runs off frozen or compacted soils. Snowmelt, on the other hand, seeps in gradually. This means: Better soil infiltration Recharged groundwater Moisture reaching deeper root zones For native plants, many of which rely on deep, resilient root systems,this early-season moisture is gold . It supports strong spring growth without  creating soggy, anaerobic conditions. So while it may feel like winter is overstaying its welcome, your plants are quietly banking water for the season ahead. **Snow Protects The Tiny Ones (Even If You Can’t See It)** Under that snow are: Overwintering butterfly chrysalides Native bee queens Beneficial insects waiting for their cue A slow transition from winter to spring helps synchronize insect emergence with flowering plants. When spring arrives all at once, insects can wake up before food is available, or plants can leaf out before pollinators are ready. Snow helps keep everyone on the same schedule. Nature is very big on timing. **Yes, You’re Allowed to Have Spring Fever ** Let’s be clear: You are absolutely  allowed to be impatient. You can: Stare at your garden beds daily Rearrange seed trays for the third time Whisper “any day now” at the soil Spring fever is part of the fun of gardening. But snow doesn’t mean spring isn’t coming—it means winter is ending responsibly . And when it finally melts? The soil will be primed The roots will be protected The insects will be ready The plants will respond fast Spring is coming. And thanks to the snow, it’s going to be a good one. **Want to Touch Soil Now (Without Freezing Your Tuckus Off)?** If all this snow appreciation is doing absolutely nothing to cure your spring fever, we’ve got a solution. Join us in the greenhouse for plug potting! It’s warm(ish), it’s earthy, and it involves actual dirt under your fingernails—without numb fingers or regret. Plug potting is: A hands-on way to help grow native plants A great introduction to what goes into producing healthy, resilient natives An excellent excuse to hang out with like-minded plant people A guaranteed mood boost this time of year We have a volunteer sign-up on our website ,  and all skill levels are welcome. If you can hold a plant and gently tuck soil around its roots, you’re qualified. When we are ready, we will send out an email and you can show up!  Come get some dirt on your hands, breathe in that greenhouse smell, and remind yourself that spring is  happening…even if it’s taking the scenic route. We promise: no frozen tuckuses involved. **References for the smarty-pants: ** Does snow provide any soil fertility benefits?: Crop science us . Crop Science. (n.d.). https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/articles/bayer/does-snow-provide-soil-fertility-benefits   Mahmoud, H. H., Antwi, F. A., & Mahmood, T. H. (2025). Impacts of Snowmelt Recharge on Groundwater Table Fluctuations in a Cold Region Unconfined Aquifer.  Earth, 6(4). Emily K Studd, Amanda E Bates, Andrew J Bramburger, Timothy Fernandes, Brian Hayden, Hugh A L Henry, Murray M Humphries, Rosemary Martin, Bailey C McMeans, Eric R D Moise, Antóin M O'Sullivan, Sapna Sharma, Brent J Sinclair, Alex O Sutton, Pamela H Templer, Steven J Cooke . Nine Maxims for the Ecology of Cold-Climate Winters, BioScience, Volume 71, Issue 8, August 2021, Pages 820–830, https://doi.org/10.1093/biosci/biab032

By mid-February, we start warming a small section of our greenhouse to get a jump start on the season. We don’t have a heated greenhouse, so instead we section off an area and use warming mats and a small heater as needed—just enough to take the chill off. We loosely follow the end of the “Persephone Period.” In Massachusetts, from November through mid-February, daylight drops below ten hours a day, which essentially halts plant growth. Rather than setting up extensive grow lights to artificially extend the day, we wait to start seeds until natural daylight increases. This timing varies depending on where you are in the world. " To explain seasonal changes, the ancient Greeks told the story of Persephone, goddess of the Spring , who was abducted by Hades and taken to the underworld. Her mother Demeter, goddess of Agriculture, was filled with grief and neglected the earth, creating a famine. Zeus interceded with Hades and negotiated Persephone's return. However, since she had eaten four pomegranate seeds, she has to stay in the underworld for four months each year. During that time Demeter mourns her daughter's absence, causing the earth to enter a period of dormancy when nothing grows until Persephone's return." Our seeds overwinter in refrigerators instead of outdoors. Because we grow over 20,000 plants each year, this system helps us stay organized and consistent, without having to account for increasingly unpredictable winter conditions. Our approach has evolved a lot over the past six years as we learn what works—and what doesn’t. As with most things in growing, you’ll find that every grower does it a little differently! Lessons from years one and two: what we wouldn’t do again Sand crusted and hardened on the surface, making seedling emergence difficult. It’s also unsustainable and made trays too heavy. At scale, outdoor stratification was inconsistent and highly dependent on winter conditions. Year two was especially dry, resulting in low germination. Starting seedlings in flat trays and transplanting them one by one into larger pots led to leggy, stressed plants. Complicated lighting setups aren’t needed if seedlings are started at the right time, and they make watering and management harder. New and Improved methods: Our seeds spend their “winter” in the refrigerator, nestled in damp—but not wet—vermiculite. This mimics natural cold stratification while giving us much more control than leaving seeds outdoors. We store the seeds in plastic bags with the air pressed out, which helps maintain consistent moisture levels without letting the vermiculite dry out or become waterlogged. This method keeps conditions stable and predictable, regardless of how variable the winter weather may be outside. We built this small greenhouse inside our larger greenhouse. It gives us just enough heated space to grow what we need without investing many thousands of dollars to heat the entire structure. It’s also a more sustainable approach than heating such a large space. Beginning in mid-February, seeds come out of the refrigerator and are ready to be sown. We start them in our 200-cell trays, which hold 200 individual cells in a standard 10” × 20” tray. These small cells allow us to start a large number of plants in a relatively small amount of space, making the most of our limited heated area early in the season. Sedge species are soaked for 24 hours before sowing, and we’ve found this results in much better germination than using non-soaked seeds. The soak helps fully hydrate the seed and can soften the seed coat, making it easier for the seed to break dormancy and sprout once planted. Instead of heating the entire greenhouse, we use heat mats on our tables to warm the soil directly. This targeted approach uses significantly less electricity than running space heaters and provides consistent bottom heat right where seedlings need it most to germinate and establish strong roots. At the same time, we switched to 200-cell trays, which allows us to grow more plants in the same footprint and make the most efficient use of our limited heated area. We originally sowed thickly as a way to save space, but quickly realized that many native plants actually prefer growing this way. Time and again, the data we tracked showed that denser sowing resulted in fuller, greener plants that established more quickly and grew more vigorously, especially in the early stages of growth. We sow heavily and divide later if needed, allowing seedlings to grow together early on. Even at the point of sale—once plants are potted into quart pots—you’ll typically find multiple plants per pot, which helps create a fuller planting and supports stronger early establishment in the garden. Native plants usually don’t need fertilizer, but when they’re grown in small cells, they benefit from a light boost of nutrients. We use a very diluted Neptune’s Harvest fish and seaweed fertilizer and apply it through bottom watering, allowing the trays to absorb what they need without encouraging excessive top growth or weak, leggy plants. Seedlings grow quickly in the mini greenhouse and don’t stay there long before they’re ready to be moved into larger cells. Because our warm space is limited, we start seedlings on a rotating schedule, moving trays along as they outgrow the space so new seeds can take their place. We use a homemade wooden dibbler to make uniform planting holes for our 200-cell seedlings. Having evenly sized holes speeds up the potting process and helps ensure each seedling is set at the proper depth, making the work faster and more consistent. We pop seedlings out of the 200-cell trays and pot them up into 50-cell trays as the next step in their growth. While this does add an extra step to the process, our space limitations and unpredictable spring weather make this the most reliable way to keep plants healthy and moving forward. Some species, like this Asclepias incarnata  (rose or swamp milkweed), thrive with just one or two seedlings per cell. These plants establish strong root systems quickly and don’t benefit from being crowded, so giving them a bit more space early on leads to healthier growth as they mature. As seedlings move into larger cells, some are divided into individual plants while others are left grouped with multiple seedlings per cell. This flexibility allows us to respond to how each species grows, and we can separate or divide them at any stage during the potting-up process if needed. We add tiers in the mini greenhouse to maximize the available warm space, allowing us to fit more trays inside. During cold snaps, we pack trays in closely to help protect plants from freezing overnight and make the most of the heat we’re generating. Once days warm up a bit, trays take field trips into the larger greenhouse during the day and then get packed back in at night. By then, the mini greenhouse is full, with trays squeezed into every usable space to avoid freezing. In late March or early April, seedlings in 50-cell trays are ready to move out of the lightly heated mini greenhouse and into the larger, unheated greenhouse. By this point, increasing daylight and milder daytime temperatures allow the plants to continue growing without supplemental heat. When moving from 50-cell trays into quart pots, you’ll see there are still multiple seedlings per cell. Since customers often buy a single plant, this means they’re actually getting multiple plants in one pot. This helps create a fuller planting early on, and over time one seedling may naturally outcompete the others as the plant matures. We do our best to avoid root-bound seedlings by moving plants into larger cells as soon as possible. If we see significant root circling, we gently loosen the roots before potting up—something as simple as a chopstick works surprisingly well. We don’t disturb the roots of native plants unless they’re actually root-bound. As this Elymus  moves into a quart pot, we keep the soil level exactly the same as it was in the cell. Planting too deeply can trap moisture around the crown and lead to rot, so maintaining the original soil line is key to keeping these plants healthy as they continue to grow. Cutleaf coneflower grows so quickly that it’s one of the last species we sow in early spring. Its rapid growth rate means it doesn’t need an early start, and sowing later helps keep it from outgrowing our space too soon. We grow just one plant per pot because these plants get enormous, and if you’ve been to the nursery, you’ve definitely seen this towering species growing out front. Ta da! And that’s it—by mid-April, the plants are ready to start moving outside to harden off. This gradual transition helps prepare them for life in your garden, so by the time they head home with you, they’re well adapted and ready to thrive. See you in the spring! Britt

When I was little I would watch my Scandinavian grandmother carefully wrapping each of the perches on her finch feeders with yarn before filling the feeder up for the winter. Around and around to "keep their little feet warm when they stop to eat". Do you need to wrap bird feeder perches in cozy yarn? Um, no. Even better would be to make plant choices that care for the birds. Although there are things that we can do to support our feathered friends year round (namely...plant native) , we'll look specifically at what we can do to support them during winter's harsh weather (namely...plant native). So you'd like to bring birds to your yard during the winter, there's nothing quite like putting out food to get the neighbors to visit. We'll look at plants that provide fruit, seeds, nuts, and insects but keep in mind there's quite a lot of overlap. And bonus...a lot of these plants we mention also provide shelter. FRUIT As you likely know, shrubs and smaller trees are an important part of the understory of our environment and are often missing in a traditional urban or suburban back yard full of flat turf grass and tall trees and curated flowers. Birds need understories for shelter, nesting, and food, especially during the winter. When those shrubs bear fruit that persists into winter they are supplying energy dense fats, proteins, and nutrients. Can't birds just eat any shrub's fruit regardless of if it's native status? Actually...New England native berries are lipid-rich with just the right content. Native berries, preferred by birds when they can find them, have the right stuff, “the highest fat content and energy densities were found in fruits of native shrubs ..." In addition, when a bird eats fruit from native shrubs and flys to nearby woods later to "deposit" the unused portion of the fruit, they are building tomorrow's woods. When birds eat the fruit of non-native fruit, they are spreading non-native shrubs ad infinitum. The bird species we have listed here are happy to consume more than fruit but when I look outside my own windows in the winter these are some of the birds I see on the native fruiting shrubs. The (1) American robins and (2) Northern cardinals seem to particularly like the Aronia species pictured below. (Yes some robins do migrate and some do not). (3) Cedar waxwings particularly like "berries" from Eastern red cedar although what looks like berries are actually modified cones. But we'll keep them here in the fruiting section. Ok, ok, Eastern red cedar aren't shrubs either. But we love them so they are staying in this fruiting shrubs section. The following species are fruiting shrubs...and a tree...whose berries persist through much of the winter. 5 Great Species for Winter FRUIT Black chokeberry , Aronia melanocarpa Shrub • full sun, part sun/part shade • average, moist, wet soil • 3-6' tall This shrub has everything going for it. A great vase-like shape, beautiful flowers visited by a variety of native insects , supports wildlife , great flowers , great fall colors , and... edible berries (best cooked). Birds will only eat them in January and February after they've gone through several freeze cycles and get a little less astringent (they are aptly named "chokeberry"). We also love red chokeberry, Aronia arbuitifolia. Highbush Cranberry, Viburnum trilobum Shrub • sun to part sun/part shade • Thrives in moist soil. Will tolerate wet and even average but not ideal. • 8-12' tall Over the winter the berries sweeten and are excellent in jams . Viburnum spp . offer important support for wildlife, serving as host plants to butterflies and moths . The berries are eaten by Cedar Waxwing and other birds. Two or three shrubs are recommended for best fruit production. Eastern red-cedar, Juniperus virginiana Tree • full sun, part sun/part shade • Average to moist soil, not particular • 30'-50' tall This gorgeous mid-sized conifer is in the Juniper family. The female trees produce fragrant, grey-black, berry-like cones which are a rich food source for birds such as the Cedar Waxwing. Use as a windbreak, privacy screen , can be used as a sturdy planting in soils that are otherwise a challenge such as poor, dry soils and rocky outcrops. Winterberry ( Ilex verticillata ) Shrub • full sun, part sun, shade • average, moist, or wet soil • 3-10' tall Common winterberry is a lovely shrub in the holly family. Unlike other hollies, winterberry sheds its leaves each fall, leaving behind clusters of brilliant red berries that serve to feed birds throughout the winter months . Also great for clipping in the winter for holiday decorations! Arrowwood ( Viburnum dentatum)  Shrub • full to part sun • Average soil • 6-10' tall When I was at Manomet Observatory recently I was told that their research shows (by analyzing bird poop!) that this species is a preferred fruit , by far. Viburnum dentatum not only provides nourishment but also offers valuable cover in the springtime for nesting birds, making it an essential plant for supporting local wildlife. SEEDS Many years ago, goldfinch eating black eyed Susan seeds from their dried seed heads in my yard early one winter was my native-plant "AH HA" moment. A friend gifted me that plant many years ago and it was the start of all of this. Native plants can be both lovely in the winter and support our feathered friends who don't fly off to warmer pastures when the cold weather hits. So leaving your seed-producing plants standing in the winter doesn't only allow for winter texture in your garden, these are the OG birdfeeders . Native seeds provide an essential source of calories that supports daily activity and helps birds maintain body heat through cold weather. Is there anything more charming than a small flock of (1) Dark-eyed Juncos happily nibbling seeds? While these winter visitors are often found beneath bird feeders, gathering what other birds have dropped, we can also support them naturally by planting species that provide seed right in the landscape. (2) American goldfinches  can often be found on dried seed heads but also eat buds, sap, and twigs. (3) Black-capped chickadees , #freakingadorable , are similarly adaptable, feeding on fruits and also the seeds produced by many of the plants listed below. 5 Great Species for Winter SEEDS Goldenrod species , Solidago spp. We love them all not only for their wildlife value but spectacular color and long lived seeds. Goldenrods provide outstanding texture in a winter garden. Some of our favorites: Gray goldenrod , Solidago nemoralis (pictured) and Sweet goldenrod , Solidago odora for drier soils in full sun , and F orest goldenrod , Solidago arguta for drier soils in part sun . Little bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium Grass • full sun, part sun/part shade • Average to dry • 3' tall Incredible Wildlife value …provides nesting material for birds and native bees, serves as a grazing cover for birds and small mammals, seeds provide food for late migrating and wintering birds and small mammals, highly deer resistant, larval host plant for a multitude of skippers and butterflies Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta Biennial/short lived perennial • full sun, part sun • dry, average, moist • 2' These biennial wildflowers easily reseed , and are best suited to areas of disturbance where you want a short lived perennial that will fill in while waiting for some of the long-term plants to establish . The seeds will persist through the beginning of winter. New England Aster, Symphyotrichum novae-angliae Perennial • full sun, part sun • moist or average, soil • 5' The late blooms of the New England aster provides a welcome nectar source for the migrating Monarchs and many other butterflies and bees. The seeds usually persist through the beginning of winter. This photo is from my yard this week. Eastern white pine, Pinus strobus Tree • Sun to part sun • Moist to average soil • usually 50-80' tall, up to 100' Eastern white pines offer food and shelter year-round. Birds like the White-breasted nuthatch ( Sitta carolinensis ) and the Pine siskin ( Spinus pinus ) depend on the seeds from the pine cones, while small mammals such as squirrels rely on both the seeds and the soft, protective bark. The tree also provides excellent nesting sites for birds, with its dense canopy offering shelter and a safe space for the young to grow. NUTS Birds that stick around New England for the winter need fuel, and nuts are basically their power bars. When insects are harder to find and berries are picked clean, native nuts like hazelnuts, hickory nuts, and acorns, offer something rare in winter: lots of fat and calories packed into a small bite . That high-energy food helps birds stay warm through long, cold nights and cuts down on risky winter foraging. Species like (1) Blue Jay s collect acorns and use their bills to break them open or store them in holes in the ground. Woodpeckers like the (2) Downy woodpecker and (3) Nuthatches are especially good at cracking, caching, and coming back to these nutritious snacks all season long. 3 Great Species for Winter NUTS American Hazelnut ( Corylus americana ) Shrub • full sun, part sun/part shade • average to moist soil • 5-10' This shrub is very interesting in the Fall with great variants in foliage color . The American Hazelnut supports over 140 species of butterflies and moths , as well as mammals both small and human-sized. A Blue jay favorite! S hagbark hickory, Carya ovata Tree • full sun, part sun/part shade, shade • dry, average, moist • 60-80' tall You’ll need a decent amount of space for this stately tree, with most reaching 60-80 feet, and some up to 120 ft, with a canopy to match. The strong, straight trunk  features bark that peels in long, flat strips, lending a shaggy look  which provides interest year round, hence Shagbark Hickory . photo by Katherine Wagner Reiss White oak, Quercus alba Tree • full sun • average or dry soil • 50-80' tall The oak tree is a wildlife superstar , providing a valuable food source for hundreds of birds, small mammals, and over 473 different species of butterflies and moths ! Humans can use the acorns as a food source as well. Listen to: " Why Oaks Are Our Most Essential Native Tree, with Doug Tallamy " photo by Dcrjsr INSECTS Birds—especially chickadees, woodpeckers like the (1) Northern flicker , Nuthatches, (2) Carolina wrens , and overwintering sparrows—depend heavily on protein-rich insects in the winter. Many insects overwinter as eggs, larvae, pupae, or adults  tucked into bark crevices and stems. (3) Brown Creepers  prefer foraging in large, mature trees with deeply furrowed bark . Leave your leaves on the ground and you provide even more insects for birds in the winter! Bonus: beyond wintertime , planting native is extremely important to supporting birds. Native insects overwhelming only eat native plants. And terrestrial birds overwhelmingly feed their young insects. Chickadees for example feed each brood 6,000 to 9,000 caterpillars in a season ! Yowsa. 4 Great Species for Winter INSECTS Black oak, Quercus velutina Woodpeckers use the oak’s bark to find insects, while Nuthatches forage in its canopy for seeds and insects. The black oak’s rough bark can serve as shelter for various insects, including beetles and caterpillars, which in turn attract birds like Yellow-rumped Warbler that are drawn to the protein-rich insects. Gray dogwood, Swida racemosa As the blossoms fade, large, white, berry-like drupes form on bright red twigs , which maintain their color as the birds pick them clean and the leaves fall, fading to a rich brown color as winter comes. Swida (Cornus) species host moth larvae and scale insects over the winter. The dense twig structure makes for great shelter. Sweet birch, Betula lenta While most trees are prized for their foliage, the Sweet Birch has a gorgeous red-brown bark to complement the yellow fall foliage . Along with providing excellent shade , the birch is also an ecological prize , serving as a host to 393 documented species of butterflies and moths , including the Green Comma (which isn’t green!). Peeling bark provides shelter for overwintering insects. Highbush blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum Shrub • sun to part shade • Moist to average soil • 40'-80' tall Highbush Blueberry is a tall, fruit-producing shrub that offers multi-season visual interest along with edible fruit and high pollinator support . The fruit will be long gone before the winter, but native Vaccinium species hosts a variety of insects on its woody stems. Happy winter planning! Britt Further reading and citations: Bird Friendly Winter Gardens , Cornell Lab Birds in Massachusetts , Mass Audubon Not-So-Common Winter Birds , Mass Audubon How Do Birds Cope With Cold Winter Weather , Audubon Level Up Your Winter Birding By Knowing Your Conifers (great illustrations!) , Audubon

Happy New Year from Blue Stem Natives! May your 2024 be full of joy, good health, and native plants. The middle of winter has us thinking about what else...plants. Many of our wonderful customers are either brand new gardeners or newer to using plants indigenous to New England. This post is for you! If you are already reading this, we assume you already know "why native", if not you can read more about that here. How did we select these ten plants for our great-natives-for-beginners list? We know from personal experience that they are generally easy to grow, support wildlife, and are lovely to boot. But we've also gone a little "scientific" in making this list and looked at their " Coefficient of Conservatism "(CoC) rating. Wait! Don't stop reading! This is just a scientific rating of how tolerant each species is to disturbance and how fussy they are for a specific habitat. If we want to be fancy we can call that fussiness "habitat fidelity". Wait! Really...don't stop reading! Think of a lady slipper ( Cypripedium spp. ) as being a poster child for fussiness...or having high habitat fidelity and therefore have a CoC value of 10. Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) on the other hand is not particular, has low habitat fidelity and thus has a rating of 1. We've selected plants in the range of 2-4 on the Coefficient of Conservatism scale, which are generally tolerant of disturbance and have lower "habitat fidelity". So you won't be surprised that there are no lady slippers on this list! Enough of that, let's get to that list: Purple lovegrass, Eragrostis spectabilis There is so much to love about purple lovegrass . It is a tough little plant , drought hardy , and brings subtle waves of color and texture  to the landscape. You'll see a sea of this along Route 3! Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun Water needs: dry to average soil Height: 2' Bloom time: July, August Good plant companions: asters, Pennsylvania sedge, spotted bee balm, little bluestem, goldenrod salt tolerant. deer resistant Can handle roadside conditions. Host plant for the at-risk Leonard's skipper butterfly Wild strawberry,   Fragaria virginiana This ground-hugging perennial spreads via runners, be sure to give it plenty of room and it will fill in an area with lush dark green foliage , sweet tiny white flowers in the Spring, and even sweeter tiny berries . Great as a lawn replacement! Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade, shade Water needs: Average, moist to dry soil Height: 6" Bloom time: April, May Edible: These are smaller and tastier than domesticated strawberries but don't last long after picked.  salt tolerant. Great fall leaf color. Can handle roadside conditions. Nectar source for the at-risk Early Hairstreak Black-eyed Susan,   Rudbeckia hirta Black-eyed Susan is a native garden ornamental that is easily recognizable. You can’t help but smile when you see a batch of the bright yellow daisy-like flowers with the beautiful brown centers bobbing in the breeze. Bonus: you'll have goldfinch visit you in the winter to snack on the seeds. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: dry, average, moist Height: 2' Bloom time: June, July, August, September, October Good plant companions: purple coneflower, New England aster, butterflyweed, bee balm salt tolerant deer resistant Can handle roadside conditions. Partridge pea,   Chamaecrista fasciculata Also known as Partridge Pea or Sensitive Plant, Chamaecrista fasciculata is fast growing, self-seeding annual that works to fill in large areas of an open garden, allowing other perennials time to establish , all while providing protection from weeds, fixing nitrogen in the soil , and providing excellent nutrients for pollinators and songbirds alike. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: Moist, average, or dry soil Height: 2' Bloom time: June, July, August Can grow in a container Boneset, Eupatorium perfoliatum From a visual standpoint, this tall perennial has a sturdy structure with interesting green foliage , white hairs along the stem, and flat clusters of tiny white flowers congregating high atop the stem. This is a favorite plant for many insects. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: average, moist, to wet Height: 4' Bloom time: July, August, September Good plant companions: New England aster, cardinal flower, bee balm, eastern star sedge, switchgrass salt tolerant and deer resistant Can be aggressive in the right setting. Nectar source for the at-risk y ellow-banded bumblebee Bee balm,   Monarda fistulosa T his one is a Blue Stem favorite.  A moderately tall growing perennial, bee balm has the most delicious scent , and provides both lovely color and texture . This plant needs good spacing and drier soil as it can be prone to powdery mildew, (more of a visual issue than a problem). Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: dry, average Height: 4' Bloom time: July, August, September Good plant companions: black-eyed Susan, N.E. aster, butterflyweed Deer resistant Nectar source for at-risk: golden northern bumblebee, the yellow-banded bumblebee, and the half-black bumblebee. Plant this for hummingbirds Foxglove beardtongue,   Penstemon digitalis This delightful perennial has panicles of white/pink flowers atop reddish stems . After the bloom, seed pods appear and turn a reddish-brown color . The dried brown pods provide wonderful winter interest and food source for birds . This species is unrelated to the European foxglove. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: dry, average Height: 4' Bloom time: June, July Good plant companions: N.J. tea, bee balm, Indian grass Deer resistant and salt tolerant Can handle roadside conditions Note: can be pushy Nectar source for the at risk: golden northern bumble bee, the yellow-banded bumblebee, and the half-black bumblebee. Plant this for hummingbirds Carolina rose ,  Rosa carolina This native rose conjures thoughts of a long country road, with weathered split rail fences covered in thickets of dark green foliage and simple pink blossoms . This is a wonderful smelling rose bush to replace the non-native rosa rugosa. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: dry, average, moist Height: 2' Bloom time: June, July, August Good plant companions: liatris, butterflyweed, Black-eyed Susan, New England aster, wood lily, bluets, bee balm Salt tolerant Edible portions: rose hips in the fall. The fruit can be made into syrup and jams. Great fall leaf color Can handle roadside conditions Pollen source for  the at risk: golden northern bumble bee, yellow-banded bumblebee, and half-black bumblebee. Rose milkweed,   Asclepias incarnata Don’t let the alternative common name of rose milkweed, "swamp milkweed", deter you from adding this delight to your garden. Renamed recently because it does NOT have high habitat fidelity and doesn't need to grow in a swamp. Asclepias incarnata produces gorgeous purple-pink flower heads, and the scent…reminiscent of vanilla . Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: Moist, average, or wet soil Height: 4' Bloom time: June, July, August Good plant companions: Cardinal flower, New England aster Deer resistant Supports at-risk insects: Nectar source for Dion Skipper, Host plant for Monarch butterfly, Nectar source for yellow-banded bumblebee, half-black bumblebee Can handle roadside conditions. Plant this for hummingbirds. Little bluestem, Schizachyrium scoparium Can handle a wide range of soils and water conditions . Ideally suited for dry, nutrient-deficient soils, little bluestem can handle sandy, loamy, clay, and everything in-between. It doesn’t love tons of water, but can handle the occasional deluge, so it can be a surprisingly good addition to a rain garden! We love this plant so much we named our business after it. Details Sun needs: full sun, part sun/part shade Water needs: Average to dry Height: 3' Bloom time: July, August, September, October Good plant companions: Asters, liatris, purple lovegrass deer resistant Can handle roadside conditions. Supports at-risk insects: Host plant for Indian skipper and Cobweb skipper Happy planning! See you in the spring!

Follow along to see our newest project! We'll post updates here weekly. Blue Stem buys a horse trailer! We're currently restoring a used horse trailer we found on Facebook Marketplace—with plans to transform it into a mobile pop up plant shop . Follow along below for updates as the project comes to life. Interested in bringing our trailer to your area for a pop-up sale? We’re aiming to hit the road starting around August 1st. Whether it’s a garden club, library, school, or other community event, we'd love to hear from you— reach out to us here. Once our pop-up calendar is set, we’ll post it here as well. UPDATES Date: Tuesday, July 29 Update:  Progress is happening—just a little slowly!  With the recent heat waves, it’s been tough to find a time to paint when it’s not too hot for the paint (or for us). In the meantime, we’ve been tackling the rust inside the trailer. The walls have been scraped, sanded, puttied, and coated with rust-stopping primer— looking snazzy already! Up next:  interior paint and a light sanding of the floors. We’re actually loving the look of the worn wood, so we’re planning to keep some of that “horsey hoof” patina. A little nod to the trailer’s former life. Curent images: Date: Sunday, July 6 Update:  This week was all about clearing out the trailer. The rubber mats and dividers are gone, the padding’s been stripped from the sides, and we’ve wrestled with a few rusty screws and rusty spots. A power wash of the interior followed—though, I will say the sellers had the whole thing pretty clean so it's been a happily unsatisfying power wash. lol. This week we've also been measuring the trailer to determine potential for shelving and a pop out service window. Farmer's markets have been great fun but loading and unloading and then reloading and re-unloading cars full of plants isn't easy on the back. So a service window or ability for customers to come into the trailer to shop (still working on if insurance would allow that) is in the future. We're determining how many plants we can fit in this thing by laying out the trays to visualize shelving. Next up: work on the rust, order shelving, and start to prime. Current images: More soon! Date: Monday, June 30 Update:  We've been exploring the idea of going mobile for nearly two years, and horse trailers have been part of that vision. While we'll continue operating from our regular location in Norwell, this new addition will allow us to bring native plants to a wider audience. Today, we found the perfect trailer, and Kristen made the trip north of Boston to pick it up. This week, we’ll begin by power washing the trailer inside and out in preparation for painting. We’ll also be measuring every inch of the interior to plan for shelving that will help us maximize our plant capacity. In addition, we'll be connecting with a fabricator to install a pop-out service window. Current images: Britt has also been having fun with Canva brainstorming painting possibilities:

Let’s face it: rabbits are adorable. Those twitchy noses, the cotton ball tails, the ears that say “I’m listening, but I’m still going to eat your echinacea.” If you’ve ever tiptoed outside in spring to admire your perennial garden only to find it neatly trimmed by a mystery landscaper with fur—congrats! You’re gardening with rabbits. Instead of plotting bunny revenge or surrounding your beds with barbed wire, what if we reframed the whole situation? What if your yard could be a shared space—beautiful, resilient, and rabbit-friendly (within reason)? Eastern Cottontail Rabbit ( Sylvilagus floridanus) peeking over Tiarella cordifolia in search of its next herbaceous victim Hoppy Facts to Get You Started Rabbits are crepuscular , meaning they do most of their snacking at dawn and dusk. So if your coneflowers look fine at night but shredded by morning, now you know who clocked in. One rabbit can eat up to a pound of vegetation per day.  That’s a lot of salad—and explains why your asters are now just stems. They don’t dig burrows  (those are moles or groundhogs); rabbits make shallow nests called “forms,” often in tall grass or mulched beds—yes, sometimes in the middle of your phlox. Baby rabbits are called kits , and they’re usually left alone during the day. Don’t panic if you find a nest; Mama visits at night. If you find a nest, leave them be, and protect from any pets. Now that we understand our fuzzy garden companions a bit better, let’s talk strategy. How to Garden (Successfully!) with Rabbits Plant What They Hate (or Least Tolerate) Rabbits have surprisingly picky palates. Plants with strong scents and woody textures tend to be further down on the preference list. Incorporate these less-palatable perennials in abundance throughout your garden: Bee Balm ( Monarda ssp) Lavender (not native, but beneficial) Russian Sage (also not native, salvias are native south of us) Milkweed (protect while young) Mountain mint ( Pycnanthemum ssp) Geranium maculatum Black-Eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia hirta…protect while small) Alliums (not necessarily native but helpful) Pro tip: scatter these around tastier plants to confuse and annoy your garden grazers. Diversify Like a Wildlife Strategist Think of your garden as a buffet. If you only plant lettuce and pansies, you’re essentially inviting a rabbit rave. Include a mix  of textures, scents, and species—this makes your garden more resilient and less of a bunny magnet. This strategy also helps with the other summer garden pest… ticks! The more diverse your garden, the better for everyone.  Use Physical Barriers (Gently) Protect young or vulnerable plants with chicken wire cloches   or mesh tunnels  until they establish. Keep barriers low—rabbits don’t climb—but be sure the mesh is tight (1” or less). Don’t fence your entire yard like Fort Knox. Just give new plantings a fighting chance. Leave a Little Habitat Yes, we want to protect your garden—but we don’t want to evict wildlife either. Consider: A corner with tall native grasses Brush piles or thickets as designated hangouts Keeping some clover or dandelions—they’re bunny favorites and may distract them from your lupine. Accept a Little Loss (and Laugh About It) This is the hardest and most important part. Your garden isn’t a showroom—it’s a living ecosystem. Sometimes that means sharing. One of the greatest joys of gardening is watching life flourish… even when it’s nibbling. Don't plant just one of this and one of that, add a mass of each. Bunnies may ( will) still eat around the edges, but hopefully you will plant enough that the damage won't be as noticable. Final Thoughts: The Joy of Co-Gardening Learning to garden with rabbits is a masterclass in patience, flexibility, and a healthy sense of humor. You’ll get creative, become a better observer, and (if you’re lucky) gain a front-row seat to the bunny ballet at twilight. Plus, once you stop fighting nature, you might find she’s actually a pretty good co-designer.

A Multi-Part Series for the Home Gardener Step 2- Fix the problems and dream big! Did everyone do their SITE SURVEY last month? I spent hours tracing and making adjustments. My printer conked out so I had to make copies by hand! Ah, well, nothing a glass or two of wine and a good movie in the background can’t help! I want to stress the need to have multiple, nay, multitudes  of copies! The idea is to be able to come up with different ways to fix existing problems as well as explore multiple options of designs, especially if you don’t have a clear idea of what you want the final product to look like. Today we are going to take the site SURVEY from last month and transfer the markings to a new copy. (Fig 1) This new copy becomes your site ANALYSIS. On this copy, begin to fix the problems notated on the site survey. For example, let’s say we need to add some privacy along the North side of the yard. Currently there is a big open space along the fence between us and the neighbors, and I’d like to put in some medium sized shrubs to add some privacy. I’m not thinking about which shrubs I’m putting in yet, that comes later. I’m adding in some general shapes to block out the space. (Fig 2) I also want to fill in the low spot to the left of the leaching field where a shed used to stand. We will move the firepit down to that space. Where the firepit is now will be my new greenhouse (YAY!!) Do you see where I’m going here? The idea is to add in general shapes for plantings, structures, pathways, no matter how far down the line these installations might happen. In fact, I might recommend drawing up two or more of these analysis plans, one being a bit dreamier  than the other. You never know when you are going to land on something that fits perfectly. Remember, this copy is supposed to look like a hot mess. Add, erase, add more. Overlap shapes where appropriate, taking into account tree canopy, decks, fence lines, ect. Fig 1- Complete Site Survey  Fig 2- 1st Site Analysis with rough draw ins As you can see in Figure 2, I’ve added in all kinds of new plant beds, general pathways, a seating area, and small shrubs in the front yard. Shade shrubs and plantings will fill in the north side of the house, and various beds will fill in around the GREENHOUSE!!! I’ve added in the deck we are saving for, added privacy shrubs along the north fence line, and continued around the yard. In the area that I marked as a low spot in figure 1, I am going to fill it in and move the firepit to that area. Once I’ve added all my needs and wants , I filled in the empty areas as “lawn.” Remember, we aren’t thinking about the type of plants going in, but I do already know that my goal is to have a “turf-free” lawn, so sedges and strawberries are certainly in my future plans. Do you see the differences from the first to the second picture? There should be no space unaccounted for. If a space is meant to be open lawn, draw in a big shape and mark it as lawn! Put whatever beds you want where you want them, nothing is set in stone here! Take your time and fill out at least a couple different versions. I’m going to play around with where I want to put my seating area. I live on a busy street so I might put the seating area further back near the court and add more pollinator beds around the front. I missed putting in the cold frames in that open space along the north fence, but then, if I have a greenhouse, I might not use those. Maybe a few raised beds for some veggies would work there. The south side of the house is a bit squished, so it is hard to put any kind of detail in there. I think I might add a large trellis on that side of the house for some much-needed shade in the summer, and I’d like to put a small shed behind the dog park. Next month, we are going to start digging into the details. Scale is really going to come into play so don’t feel bad if you need to blow up the size of your drawing. I plan on really expanding my survey over a couple of sheets taped together. More on that later! Have fun dreaming!

There is something magical about the Spring, when we have had months of cold, snowy weather, and the predominant color is brown. I love me a good brown, but when those first few peeps of green start pushing up through the leaves that you left (right? we’ve been through this already.) it brings with it that feeling that warmer days are ahead, and the Winter won’t actually last forever. There is one teeny-tiny problem though, and I hate to bring it up. There are a whole bunch of plants that love to sprout up in early Spring that aren’t native here  and a few that are downright invasive.  Listen, I get it. Every plant has a place, and a function, right? I’m not typically one who recommends removing established plantings, unless those plants are problematic. What do I mean by problematic? Well, if they are listed on the invasive species list, for one thing. That work has already been done for us. Plants that are officially designated as an invasive species cause harm to the environment, economy, and/or human health. https://www.massnrc.org/mipag/invasive.htm    These plants should be removed and properly disposed of. The next level of plants would be those which are problematic in spaces, but haven’t risen (yet!) to the official level of invasive. These plants I would consider their role in your space. If there are taking up room in a small landscape that could otherwise be served with beneficial natives, then I would consider removing them. Alternatively, you could file this designation to the back of your mind, and when the plant shows signs of demise, then remove and replace with natives.  Now, this is just a little blog post. I could write a book about allllll the invasive and problematic species. Instead I want to highlight a couple of plants that are popping up in my own yard right now  and give some suggestions on removal.  Young Garlic mustard ( Alliaria petiolata ) One of the most prevelant plants I am seeing is Garlic mustard ( Alliaria petiolata ) .. This sneaky bugger looks very similar to violets and Packera aurea , both of which are early spring arrivals. Garlic mustard can be distinguished easily by crushing a leaf and giving it a whiff. There is no mistaking that pungent garlicy odor! This biennial is a prolific seeder, so expect eradication to take a couple of years. Luckily, it is one of the easier plants to remove. Grab the base of the plant, and pull. The roots should give easily, especially if there has been recent rain. As the season progresses, you may see a whole bunch more plants coming up and flowering. It’s better to cut these off at the base of the plant rather than pulling out of the soil because the larger plant roots will cause even more soil disruption and encourage more seed germination. Bag the plants up and dispose. Do NOT add to your compost pile if there are flowers and seeds!  Japanese Barberry ( Berberis thunbergii ) is one of my nemesis shrubs. This shrub has the nastiest thorns, and is one of those lovely  plants that can root from the tiniest stem fragment. I had two of these planted in front of my house and when we removed them, I was unaware of their regrowth habit. We burned most of the plant, but small fragments escaped on the way to the pit, and now I have multiple mini barberries sprouting up in various spots. ARGH.  The very best way to get these behmouths out of the ground is to throw a chain around them and yoink them out of the ground with a truck. As that isn’t always feasible or practical, the next option is to gear up like you are going into battle, and start chopping. Get heavy duty leather gloves and sharp shears. Chop the plant into smaller pieces so that you can remove all of the pokey parts and get down to the trunk. You could bag and trash, but this plant does burn well. Just make sure you don’t drop any pieces! The trunk is the next fun part. You’ll need to dig a pretty wide hole, but in my experience the roots don’t go deep. Once you can get under the main trunk you can pull it up. We did have to use a sawzall to cut some of the larger roots, but they came up fairly easily after that.  These are just two of the species I have in my yard that I am tackling right now. There are great resources that detail a bunch more, and if you have some plants popping up that you need help fiuring out, reach out and we will do our best to help! https://www.mass.gov/info-details/invasive-plants https://mywoodlot.com/blog/early-spring-a-great-time-to-spot-and-remove-invasive-plants/ https://www.nwf.org/Educational-Resources/Wildlife-Guide/Threats-to-Wildlife/Invasive-Species

A Multi-Part Series for the Home Gardener Step 1- What are you working with? The wintertime is an odd one for garden aficionados. We desperately miss having our hands in the dirt, the fresh smell of plants and manure (ok that may be a stretch), and all of the color that is sorely lacking during the cold months. Once the garden is cleaned up and the temperature drives us inside, we often find ourselves with little else to do besides thumbing through the multitudes of seed catalogs and dreaming. I’ve found another winter sport to occupy your time, and that is Designing your landscape! Now, I am not a professional, but I am in the midst of planning my own garden and so I want to share the basics of what I have learned. I’ll be writing about each step to take and posting throughout the months of January and February, which will give you plenty of time to fiddle with your plan and be ready to go for the spring plant sales! I’ll begin by stressing that you don’t need to be an expert to be able to design your landscape. Granted, those who have made this their career have an incredible amount of knowledge and can help with trouble areas or with hardscaping. This is meant to be a very basic plan for the homeowner who just feels overwhelmed and doesn’t know where to begin. You also don’t need any special materials outside of some paper, pencil, colored markers if you so choose, and a straight edge of some kind. Let’s begin with assessing what you already have. For this step you will need to get your hands on a plot survey of your yard. For those who have mortgage documents, there is usually a paper copy of the plot in with your paperwork (Fig 1). If you don’t have access to that, you can also use Google Maps, but you’ll have to guess a bit if you have tree cover. I actually prefer Google Earth, as it has some really fantastic tools for measuring. Even if you don’t have these tools, you can still draw out your yard boundaries within the confines of your paper, just try to take care to maintain scale when you add your structures. Take your plot survey and make a few copies or place a plain sheet of paper over it and trace the outlines. You want to document any existing structures and any scale markings. You will want to do this tracing a few times . You will have one BASE layer, and then the additional copies will be your WORKING layers. This step took me a decent amount of time because I transferred the measurements to a grid paper for my base layer (Fig 2). Now that you have your plot drawing, take one of the sheets and a pencil. You are going to want to add in EVERYTHING that is existing in your yard, good, bad, and ugly. Be viciously honest with this part! Make sure you draw in walking paths around the yard, downspouts on the house, problem areas like windy areas or wet spots, low spots, existing trees and their canopy, existing bushes, shrubs, flower beds. Add in all outdoor utilities like air conditioner units, electrical lines, fences, as well as where you keep your garbage cans. All of it!! This is not the time to put in things the way you wish they were, just be honest and add what’s there. You will also want to mark typical wind direction and sunny vs shade areas. Don’t forget to note compass direction! This drawing does not need to be super accurate as far as size goes, just approximate. It’s meant to be a bit messy looking; your goal is to give yourself an accurate starting point for your future plans. This layer is called your SITE SURVEY. Take your time with this step, you will want to go outside (I know, I’m sorry) a few times during different times of day and after weather events so that you can accurately document shade and sun patterns, wet areas, or other problem zones. Next week we will work on drawing up a Site Analysis, where you start to add in your wants and needs as well as fix any problems.

I spent my afternoon sexing Morella pensylvanica , Northern Bayberry. That sounds cheeky, but it really just means determining which plant is male, and which is female. In sciencey terms, this is called dioecious , where a species’ flowers are either  male or female. Sometimes on plants this is fairly easy to determine, but for certain species, the flowers are very inconspicuous, or they don’t look much like flowers at all! Willows come to mind, as do Bayberry.  As for what this means to the non-botanists among us, if you want lovely berries, and the plant is dioecious , you will need at least one male plant for every 5 or so females, in order for the female plants to produce berries. If you have, say, a winterberry in your yard that never produces those beautiful red berries, you either have a male, OR you have a female with no male in vicinity!  This “sexing” process can be tricky, you have to catch the flowers at the right time, and you have to be able to recognize the flower parts. Since I was working on the Bayberries, we will talk about the flower differences with them!  The flowers (catkins) for the Bayberry grow up the stem of the plant, and there are certain characteristics that define male versus female. The male catkins have a yellowish-green color, and are slightly larger than the female counterparts. Female catkins have no petals or sepals, so they tend to look like skinny little spikelets coming off the stem. Of course, the easiest way to distinguish a female plant is the presence of the downy green berries forming on the stem in late May/early June. In the photos below, you can see the male catkin on the left, and the female with resultant berries on the right.  Just to add a layer of complication, not all berrying plants are dioecious, and some plants are more easily fertilized than others, so it may seem  as though they are self-fertile, when really, they are just close enough to other plants. Aronia ssp comes to mind as a monoecious plant (self-fertilizing), while Lindera benzoin (Spicebush) and Sambucus (Elderberry) are dioecious, but are so high in number that they are easily fertilized in the wild.  Getting back to the Bayberry, we have gone through our current stock and marked those which we are certain are female, certainly male, or questionably male. When you come in to purchase, you can choose the pink tagged plants for females with berries, and at least one male plant for every 5 or so females. The more males you plant, generally speaking, the more prolific your females will produce.

Monarch butterflies have officially returned to New England from their incredible journey from Mexico. We had a confirmed sighting at Blue Stem Natives yesterday! Luckily we have common milkweed ( Asclepias syriaca ) growing all around the back of the greenhouse and the Monarch butterfly laid egg after egg on these plants. Monarch butterflies know to lay their eggs on milkweeds* as it's the only genus of plant that their caterpillars can eat. See the egg if you zoom in on the photo. It' s quite possible that if you bring home some milkweed in pots from Blue Stem this weekend you'll have some Monarch eggs on the leaves. The Monarch butterfly is being threatened with potential extinction. From habitat loss to pesticide/insecticide spraying (yes even those "organic" pesticides/insecticide) to people removing milkweeds from their land. We need to plant more milkweed, and we need to not spray it to kill any insects that land on it or interact with it as a flower visitor. So...What do you have in your garden to support this incredible, and sadly at-risk of going extinct, insect? And what else can you do to help ? Plant milkweeds native to New England and get them from reputable growers who can confirm no insecticides were used in the growing of the plants. Avoid big box stores. Do NOT buy tropical milkweed ( Asclepias curassavica ). Plant additional native nectar plants . Don't spray your yard to kill insects. Add a garden sign to educate others on the plight of the Monarch. We carry some Monarch signs , you can also certify your yard as a Monarch Way Station here. * Remove any black swallowwort from your property or with permission from other places. It's in the Asclepiadaceae family so it's confusing to the Monarch, but its not native and incredibly invasive here. It kills Monarch caterpillars when the Monarch butterfly accidentally lays her eggs on it. You can read more to identify it here. There are other amazing insects who need milkweed too, so don't assume something on your milkweed shouldn't be there if it's not a monarch caterpillar. Lastly, recognize that about 90% of our native insects that eat plants are specialists just like the Monarch. And the best thing you can do for all of them is to PLANT NATIVE. Want to help pollinators in general? PLANT NATIVE! Read our e-book, "A Mini-Guide to Gardening for Monarchs" all about this incredible insect to learn more ! See some misc pages below. Rumor also has it that we are putting out some pre-planned Monarch garden kits this week. You can ask to be notified when they are in stock here. Huzzah and happy planting!

Let’s be honest—when most people think about horticulture, they picture lush gardens, sustainable farming, or maybe a few well-placed houseplants. But how often do we think about the Black pioneers and trailblazers who’ve shaped this field? That’s why celebrating Black History Month  in horticulture is so important. Black people have been cultivating the land, preserving agricultural traditions, and innovating in ways that impact how we grow food and care for our environment today. Unfortunately, their contributions are often overlooked. We would love to be a part of the movement to continue changing that narrative.  We’re helping to shine a light on some of the historical legends and modern-day influencers who have made a lasting impact in horticulture, farming, and environmental activism. The Legacy: Black Pioneers in Horticulture George Washington Carver George Washington Carver (1864–1943) If you’ve ever heard the myth that Carver “invented peanut butter,” let’s set the record straight—he didn’t. But what he did  do was way more impressive. A scientist, educator, and agricultural genius, Carver promoted crop rotation, soil conservation, and sustainable farming practices at a time when overworked cotton fields were depleting the land. His research helped Black farmers (and many others) shift to nutrient-rich crops like peanuts and sweet potatoes, revolutionizing sustainable agriculture. https://www.tuskegee.edu/support-tu/george-washington-carver Booker T. Whately Booker T. Whatley (1915–2005) Ever heard of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)? You know, those programs where you buy a share of a farm’s produce? Well, Booker T. Whatley was talking about that decades  before it became mainstream. He was a horticulturist and professor who encouraged small-scale Black farmers to develop “pick-your-own” farms and direct-to-consumer sales to keep their businesses thriving. These programs especially help businesses like ours  bridge the spring gap when there is a LOT of money going out, and not much coming in until crops mature! His philosophy of self-sufficiency was all about giving farmers control over their land and economic future. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/innovation/you-can-thank-black-horticulturist-booker-t-whatley-your-csa-180977771/ Marie Clark Taylor Marie Clark Taylor (1911–1990) Dr. Marie Clark Taylor was a trailblazing botanist and educator. She was the first Black woman in the U.S. to earn a Ph.D. in botany (1941) and focused much of her research on plant photoperiodism—the study of how plants respond to light cycles. She was also a passionate advocate for science education, helping to reform biology and botany curricula at Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCUs). Her influence helped shape how plant sciences were taught to future generations https://www.womeninhorticulture.com/post/woman-of-firsts-marie-clark-taylor Fannie Lou Hamer Fannie Lou Hamer (1917–1977) Fannie Lou Hamer is best known as a civil rights leader, but her contributions to agriculture and food sovereignty are equally powerful. She founded the Freedom Farm Cooperative  in 1969 to help Black farmers and families achieve economic independence through sustainable farming. By pooling resources and cultivating land, the cooperative provided food, employment, and housing to marginalized communities. Her work demonstrated how land ownership and agriculture could be tools for empowerment and self-sufficiency. https://www.farmworkerjustice.org/blog-post/farmworker-icon-highlight-fannie-lou-hamer/ The Movement: Black Leaders in Horticulture Today John W. Boyd Jr. John W. Boyd Jr. (b. 1965) Farming in America has long been fraught with systemic challenges, especially for Black farmers. John W. Boyd Jr. knows this firsthand—he founded the National Black Farmers Association (NBFA) in 1995 to fight against the discrimination Black farmers were facing from the USDA. Thanks to his relentless advocacy, thousands of Black farmers received financial settlements for past injustices, and more attention has been brought to the struggles Black farmers still face today in land ownership and agricultural support. https://www.johnboydjr.com/ Leah Penniman Leah Penniman Leah Penniman is on a mission to reclaim Black and Indigenous farming traditions. As the co-founder of Soul Fire Farm , she’s working to address food justice, land sovereignty, and sustainable agriculture in Black and Brown communities. She wrote Farming While Black , a book that serves as both a guide and a history lesson for those looking to reconnect with the land. Her work is proof that farming isn’t just about food—it’s about power, healing, and community. https://www.soulfirefarm.org/leah-penniman/ Ron Finley Ron Finley A true revolutionary, Ron Finley—aka the “Gangsta Gardener”—decided he was done with food deserts in South Central Los Angeles. Instead of accepting that fresh produce was hard to come by in his neighborhood, he started planting gardens in vacant lots and along sidewalks. His message? Grow your own food. Take back your space.  His urban gardening movement has inspired countless people to transform neglected spaces into thriving gardens, proving that access to fresh food is a right, not a privilege. https://www.ronfinley.com/ Abra Lee Abra Lee Abra Lee is a storyteller, historian, and horticulturist on a mission to uncover the real  history of Black excellence in gardening. She’s worked in public gardens, led horticultural programs, and is the author of the upcoming book Conquer the Soil , which highlights the untold stories of Black Americans in horticulture. If you want a deeper dive into the cultural and historical impact of Black gardeners, her work is a must-follow. https://communityofgardens.si.edu/items/show/12427 Karen Washington Karen Washington If you’ve ever heard the phrase “urban farming,” you should know Karen Washington helped make it mainstream. As the co-founder of Black Urban Growers (BUGS) , she’s spent decades advocating for community gardens, food justice, and land ownership for Black farmers. Her belief? Growing food is an act of resistance.  By teaching people to cultivate their own food, she’s empowering communities to take control of their health, economy, and future. https://www.karenthefarmer.com/about Why This Matters So, why does celebrating Black History Month in horticulture matter? Because Black people have been innovators in agriculture, environmental justice, and gardening for centuries—yet their contributions are rarely highlighted in history books. Recognizing their work isn’t just about giving credit where it’s due; it’s about reclaiming narratives, amplifying voices, and inspiring the next generation of Black farmers, gardeners, and environmental leaders. Horticulture is about cultivating —not just plants, but history, culture, and community. As small-business owners, we have a responsibility to recognize, support, and uplift these voices—not just during Black History Month, but year-round. By learning from and amplifying the work of Black horticulturists, we contribute to a more just and sustainable future for all. Who are some Black horticulturists or gardeners who inspire you? We are going to continue this conversation throughout Black History Month on our socials, so follow us, and follow them!

You have a garden full of plants purchased from Blue Stem (Thank you, thank you) and you were diligent about planting them all right away, as a good gardener would. It would be really nice if the hard part was done, but with the hot summer weather upon us, the real challenge begins...how to keep newly installed plants alive during the inevitable drought. No need to panic! There are plenty of things you can do to help your young plants make it through. Here are our top tips for keeping your native plants happy and healthy through the dry summer months. If you don’t already have a rain barrel , or several, GET ONE! (Or several!) One good afternoon rainstorm can easily fill a barrel, and you can use it to supplement your water usage when the dry spell hits. Pick up a package of Mosquito Dunks to add to the water, preventing mosquito larvae from hatching. It does not harm pollinators or plants. Fill your watering cans or rig up a drip irrigation system that you can turn on and off at the spigot. Speaking of…get your hands on some drip hose! Drip irrigation is the most effective method to keep your plants properly hydrated as the water is directed close to the soil and does not hit the leaves or evaporate easily. Become really quite ridiculous when it comes to “saving water” and don’t dump cooking water down the drain. Strain that pasta water into a bucket, let it cool, and use that to water your plants, or place a large bowl in your sink when you wash your hands, using an environmentally friendly soap (Sun&Earth, Seventh Generation, and Dr. Bronner’s are all great options). Add that water to your rain barrels or use a watering can to water your plants, taking care to water low to the ground, not splashing all over the leaves and flowers. I’m kind of a nut, but I don’t see a single thing wrong with putting a bin in the shower and using that recaptured water. A long-term investment of a grey water system is definitely in my future! If your town has a water ban and requires you to stick to a strict schedule, and only use a hose, I feel you. Personally, I think allowing drip irrigation on a timer is a far better solution but tell that to the bureaucrats. If you are relegated to using a hose, make sure you are watering as deeply as you can . Divide your yard in sections if you must, and water one section every other day. When you water, first pass your hose slowly over the area, lightly dampening the soil. You may notice the water beading up if the top layer is really dry. This first pass will help break that hydrophobic tendency of the soil. Go back over the section two more times, each time watering enough to see the water pool around the plants, soaking in, and pooling again. You are aiming for around an inch of water for each plant. It can help to set down a small tin like a tuna can, so that you can measure how much water you have applied. Mulch ! Use mulch to help keep the roots of your plants cool and retain the moisture they need. I’m not talking the dyed stuff from the box store, use what your property has already given you, as much as possible! If you saved your leaves from the fall, they are probably well on their way to breaking down into some really fantastic mulch. Use it around your plants! Keep the mulch away from the base of your plants, as it can introduce rot and encourage pests. Building up a well shape around your plants can help when you are able to water, by enabling the pooling discussed in the point above. Grass clippings are helpful too, as are pine needles and compost. If you feel you must bring in outside mulch, choose finely shredded pine mulch that has not been dyed, or use arborist wood chips on the top of the soil. Avoid mixing any of the mulch into to soil. 2-3” of mulch should be enough to keep needed moisture in the ground. If you are lucky enough to go away on a lovely vacation this summer, utilize tools to help keep your plants happy. Ingenious items such as Hydro Wine spikes turn your empty wine bottles into drip irrigation systems, and there are others that use empty 2 liter bottles. ( Hydro Wine Container Watering System, Set of 4 ). There are glass bulbs that would look very cool scattered throughout the garden, and I’ve also seen some funky, fun shaped glass options that will add whimsy along with keeping your plants thriving. I know you are saying…but I planted natives because you said they were drought tolerant! Well, they are…once they are well established! If you have plants that have just been transplanted, those root systems haven’t ventured deep enough into the soil to maintain the plant, that takes time! You will need to show these new babes some love through the first season, while they put all of their energy into growing those roots. I hope these tips help. Water bans and droughts are very much a way of life from here on out and we need to do everything we can to help mitigate the effects. Be sure to share any tips you may have to keep your gardens watered through the dry summer months. Happy Summer! Photo by David Ballew on Unsplash

Kristen... What I'm Reading: The Bluest Eye by Toni Morrison What I'm Listening to: The Native Plant Podcast Hamilton Mix Tape What I'm Thinking About: The future...both immediate and long term. Also, my toes are cold. Britt... What I'm Reading: Anything peaceful right now...I have a large stack of books on native plants that I'm always browsing through. Generally reading non-fiction. Although have a soft spot for "cozy mysteries" especially the Bunburry series. What I'm Listening to: Listening to anything peaceful right now: Madeleine Peyroux and Brett Dennen . (Although, often Minions soundtracks are blasting in the house.) What I'm Thinking About: Sowing seeds :) Photo by Alice Hampson on Unsplash

It can be totally overwhelming when you first begin learning about native plants. You probably weren’t even aware there was such a thing, or that most of the plants already in your garden aren’t “native”. After all, we’ve been taught to follow the cardinal rule of hardiness zones, and if something can grow here, that must mean it was meant to be here…right? Not quite. Before we get too deep here, (in case you haven’t noticed, I’m a bit wordy), I want to clear up a few misconceptions surrounding the native plant community for all the newbies. We aren’t all know-it-all Botanists. People who have spent years in school have earned the right to share their knowledge, for sure, but don’t feel as though you are the only person in the room who doesn’t know how to pronounce Pseudognaphalium obtusifolium. Learning the botanical names for plants is important, for reasons, but don’t let the Latin intimidate you (too much). Once you practice a little, you’ll have those names rolling off your tongue like a pro. Until then, don’t worry about using common names for plants. Do understand that common names may be used for more than one plant in different areas (hence using the botanical names). You don’t have to be a garden master to join a local plant group. I’m going to plug our beloved Wild Ones-South Shore, Ma, here! Take a chance and try out some groups in your area. Yes, some may be very passionate about particulars and geared towards more experienced gardeners, but hey, everyone had to start at the beginning, right? The right group will welcome you in, no matter what level you consider yourself to be. (pssst… Wild Ones-South Shore Ma …come as you are!) Ok, so let’s dig in. Native plants are perfect for new gardeners and experienced ones alike. You don’t need to spend years learning the minute details (although it is awfully fun) about every single plant. You don’t need to worry about zones and temperatures and special soil additives and pesticides and herbicides…No. There are three basic things you need to know to get started with native plants. First, where are you? Are you near the coast, in the mountains? Are you surrounded by sweeping plains or deep forests? If you read my first article (Why Native? Go ahead, I’ll wait), you will see a map in there that has all kinds of swirly colors. Those colors show you what region you live in. If you are reading this, chances are pretty good you are somewhere along the Northeastern Coastal Zone. Perfect. Tuck that knowledge into your pocket and keep going! Next, what kind of soil do you have? Don’t freak out, I’m not asking about pH levels and mycorrhizae levels. I mean, pick a spot in your yard where you want some plants. Dig up a shovelful and take a look. Is the soil soft and dark, nice and…well…dirt-like? Pick up a handful and squeeze it. Does it stay together when you open your hand, or does it crumble away? Darkish, stays together when squeezed, falls apart when poked- moist to average soil Lighter, doesn’t stay together well, grainy- well-drained-dry, sandy soil Reddish/brown, stays together, does not fall apart- wet and/or clay (might not be both!) Last bit for our little garden space, what kind of light do you have? Take a few days and check out that plot a few times throughout the day. Does the sun hit early in the morning and stay there throughout the day? Is it shady in the morning and then late afternoon sun? Maybe only a few rays get through, but it stays mostly shady, or perhaps it hardly ever sees much sun and stays fairly “dark.” Morning sun, sunny all day- Full sun Shady in the morning, late afternoon sun- Part sun (more sun than shade) Shady most of the day, some sun poking through- Part shade (more shade than sun) Shady all day, rare sunbeams- Full shade There you have it! These are the basics you need in order to start your journey with native plants. Why don’t you need to know more? Because the evolutionary process already did the work for you! The beauty of using native plants that have spent thousands of years in a particular area is that the plants already have everything they need to thrive here. They are adapted to the water levels (or lack of), they can handle the late or early frosts, they are sturdy enough to stand up to our crazy Nor-Easter storms, and the wildlife has grown right along with them. Our good friend Mr. Dan Jaffe Wilder loves to say, “Right Plant, Right Place”. You know your “place”, now the real fun begins. Let’s find the plants! Go ahead and check out our Shop page. If you click on “all plants” you will see beautiful photos of the plants we carry, and on the left are all the filters you can use to search out the perfect plant. Start with checking the correct box for “sun needs” and then choose the right “water needs” for your soil type. The plants that show up on the right are now already sorted for you! Go ahead and play around with the other options, choosing different bloom colors and such. Fun! These plants are able to grow in environments that many standard ornamentals would wilt away in. Now, here’s the caveat. They are still living things, so don’t think that low maintenance means no maintenance! Especially for the first year, you will need to water regularly and keep areas free from invasive weeds . However, once your plants are well established, you can take a step back and put on your low-maintenance hat. Putter around, if you will, just keeping an eye on things. Drats, I’ve done it again and written a mini-novella. Well, I still have a lot more to say, so keep an eye out in the coming weeks for more posts tackling the ins and outs of being a newbie in the native plant world. Feel free to email me any questions you would like to see answered! kristen@bluestemnatives.com Photo by Gabriel Jimenez on Unsplash