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Sowing Native Seeds
Long story short...
most native seeds need winter (or something that mimics it)to unlock their ability to germinate.
If seeds sprouted right after falling in, for example, autumn - frost would kill the seedlings. So most native seeds evolved to need winter to unlock their ability to germinate. This built-in delay boosts their odds of survival. Sow your native seeds in the fall to give them the winter they need. Or you can learn more about stratification codes below. Stratification is the process of winter or treating seeds to simulate natural conditions that the seeds must experience before germination can occur.​
Native Seed Sowing Basics​
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Seed depth
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Most native seeds should be sown on the surface or barely covered. Sow to the width of the seed.
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Dust-like seeds need light to germinate: don't cover them, just press gently into the soil
Preparing the soil
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Clear weeds, grass, and debris so seeds contact bare soil
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Loosen the top layer with a rake. If soil isn't compacted, do not till, it can damage soil structure
Sowing into bare soil
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Scatter seeds evenly by hand; mix tiny seeds with sand or bagged soil for easier, even spreading
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Press seeds down with your hand, the back of a rake, or by walking over the area.
Aftercare
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No need to water all winter, snow and rain provide enough moisture
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Be patient, some natives take a full year (or two) to germinate
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Water in spring until you see solid germination, more if it's a dry spring
Understanding Stratification Codes
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If you would like to understand the codes on the front of your seed packet, and potentially increase your germination rates, see some of our most common stratification needs here:
See additional Seed Stratification Codes. B: Hot water treatment: Bring water to a boil, remove from heat, pour over seeds, and soak for 24 hours.. Generally this is for seed with a thick seedcoat. E: These seeds need a 60-90 day warm, moist period followed by a 60-90 day cold, moist period. F: These seeds need a 60-90 day cold, moist period followed by a 60-90 day warm, moist period followed by a 2nd cold, 60-90 day moist period. ​ H: Seeds need scarification: One way this can be achieved is to rub the seed between two sheets of sand paper. If code "C" is also called for, scarify first. I: Legume Inoculant K: Parasitic species which needs a host plant L: Plant fresh seed or keep seed moist M: Best results when seed sown outdoors in the fall for a natural winter.
​​​​​Choosing a Sowing Method
Once you know the code(s) for your seeds, you can decide which sowing method fits best.​
#1 Do as nature does
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Fall sowing outdoors follows the natural seasonal cycle. Freeze-thaw cycles can also help break down some seed coats over time.
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Tip
Sow into at least 50% bare soil at the right depth. If depth isn't a concern, seeds can even be scattered on top of frozen ground or even snow.
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Pros: Simple method; no transplanting needed.
Cons: Usually lower germination; seedlings can be hard to distinguish from weeds; requires a reasonably prepared site; seeds may shift with snow or rain.
#2 Contain it
Sow seeds in pots or seedling trays and place them outside in a semi-protected spot for the winter (out of direct sun, such as under a bench, not in a warm shed).
Tip
Cover with hardware mesh to keep critters out, securing it with a brick or piece of wood. Make sure the soil surface stays exposed so it can receive snow and moisture.
Pros: Simple; higher germination and more control than method #1. If you are sowing into bagged soil, you shouldn't have weed seeds.
Cons: Requires more effort than method #1; seedlings must be transplanted; critter protection is essential.
#3 Milk jug winter sowing
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Milk jugs protect seeds from critters and act as mini greenhouses in late winter and early spring. To prepare: cut the jug almost in half, leaving a 1 to 2 inch "hinge." Poke drainage holes in the bottom, add 2 to 3 inches of soil, water it, then sow your seeds. Close the jug, secure the cut with duct tape, and remove the cap. Place the jugs outside in a shaded spot for the winter.
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Pros: Strong protection; reliable germination; no wire mesh needed; lots of guidance available online.
Cons: Requires prepping jugs; seedlings must be transplanted.
#4 Winter in your fridge. Best for C(#) seeds.
Give your seeds the cold, moist conditions they need to germinate, right in your fridge. Put your seeds in a plastic ziplock bag with a handful of damp (not wet) vermiculite or clean sand. Label well, then place in the fridge (not the freezer). Sow in spring. If seeds need scarifying, do that before bagging and into the fridge.
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Pros: Great control; lets you sow in spring.
Cons: More work; takes up fridge space. Hard to see what's a seed and what's sand or vermiculite.