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Seed Sowing
Long story short...
most native seeds need winter to unlock their ability to germinate.
Most native seeds need cold, moist stratification—in other words, winter (or something that mimics it).
If seeds sprouted right after falling in autumn, the seedlings would be killed by frost. Instead, native plants evolved to wait through winter before germinating. This built-in timing mechanism increases chances of survival.
Below are some of the most common ways to provide this cold, moist stratification. You’ll also find specific guidance for our seed mixes through the links below.
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Seed Stratification Codes – A quick reference to understand species' needs.
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Lawn Mix Instructions – Step-by-step directions for sowing our “Friendly Lawn” blend.
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Seed Mix Instructions – Guidance for other mixes, like “Shady Characters” or Meadow Mixes.
A Few Options for Sowing:
#1 Do as nature does
Sow native seeds in fall so they experience winter to unlock their ability to germinate in the spring. Sow into at least 50% bare soil at the right depth. If depth isn’t a concern, seeds can even be scattered on snow.
Pros: Simple method; no need for transplanting.
Cons: Usually lower germination; seedlings can be hard to distinguish from weeds; requires a reasonably prepared site; seeds may shift with snow or rain.
#2 Contain it
Sow seeds in pots or seedling trays and place them outside in a semi-protected spot for the winter (out of direct sun, such as under a bench, but not in a warm shed). Cover with hardware mesh to keep critters out, securing it with a brick or wood. Be sure the soil surface is still exposed so it can receive snow and moisture.
Pros: Simple; higher germination and more control than method #1.
Cons: Requires more effort than method #1; seedlings must be transplanted; protection from critters is essential.
#3 Milk jug winter sowing
Milk jugs provide winter protection from critters and act as mini greenhouses in late winter and early spring. To prepare: cut the jug almost in half, leaving a 1–2 inch “hinge.” Poke drainage holes in the bottom, add 2–3 inches of soil, water, then sow your seeds. Close the jug, secure with duct tape around the cut, and remove the cap. Place the jugs outside in a shaded spot for the winter.
Pros: Strong protection; reliable germination; no wire mesh needed; lots of guidance available online.
Cons: Requires preparing jugs; seedlings must be transplanted.
#4 Winter in your fridge
You can give your seeds the cold and moisture they need to be able to germinate...in your fridge.
Put your seeds in a plastic ziplock baggie with a handful of damp (NOT wet) vermiculite or clean sand. Label well. Put in the fridge, not the freezer. Sow in the spring.
PROS: Good control. You can sow in the spring.
CONS: More work. Taking up room in your fridge.
Let's talk ferns...and forget everything you've read above...
Ferns have their own fascinating way of reproducing, and are relatively unchanged for hundreds of thousands of years. Here's one method to get them started, from American Fern Society.
"Nine Easy (if you are patient) Steps for Growing Ferns:
1) You will need a clear plastic container like the ones supermarkets use for cakes or cupcakes. This will ensure high humidity.
2) The potting soil must be good quality.
3) After putting the soil in the container dampen it. It should feel like the humus soil you would feel in an oak forest. Not too damp not too dry. To kill bacteria and fungal spores place the container in a microwave oven and heat for 3-5 minutes (until it is steaming pretty good). Be careful, too long and the container will begin to melt. Then let the soil cool for about an hour.
4) Sprinkle the spores on top of the soil , just enough so that you can see some of the powdery spores wafting down and put the container near a window. Up close for a north facing window, back a foot or so for south facing window (reverse this in the Southern Hemisphere).
5) Wait. It will be 6-8 weeks until you see anything. Then you will see small flat leaflike plants, "prothallia" that will grow to about 3/8 inches across. If there are a lot growing close together they must be thinned out to about 1 or 2 per 3" area. If not they will only grow male organs. During this time make sure the potting soil in the container does not dry out.. You should check the soil every week or so.
6) When the Prothallia get to 3/8" it will grow male and female organs. The male organ will make sperm which will swim to the female part and fertilize the egg. The egg will then grow into the fern plant that we see, called the "Sporophyte". During this time the prothallia should be sprinkled with water so that the sperm will be able to swim to the egg.
7) After another 6-8 weeks you will see little ferns come up; the first frond will be about 1/2" tall. Thin them out so they are about 3" apart.
8) In the spring give them a long time to adjust to the dry outside air by opening the top of your container a little bit each day. The open time should increase more and more for two weeks. If they look bad, close it up again until they recover, then try again. This is where I lose the most ferns; they have a hard time adjusting.
9) Plant them in a mostly shady spot, but not too shady. They are very fussy so keep an eye on them quite frequently for the first year."
